Reliable Insulation & Radon Testing Company in Hampton, CT

This homeowner in Hampton, CT called us looking to talk about radon testing. He had just built his home, and was hoping to finish it up. Before he finished it and moved into the home, though, he wanted to ensure that it was safe for his family. Therefore, he was looking to get it tested for radon to see if he needed a mitigation system or not.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. We tested the home's radon levels using our AirThings Corentium Pro radon monitor. This test was set up in the basement, as it was a new construction home and needed a baseline starting point. When our certified radon measurement specialist was able to come back out to the home a few days later, he picked up the test. He then brought the test back to the office in order to interpret the test results. At the end, the homeowner knew what was going on in their brand new home, and was able to make an informed decision about whether or not to put in a mitigation system! 

This homeowner in Hampton, CT called us saying that they had moisture and mold issues in their attic, according to their roofing contractor. Our Home Comfort Specialist came out to confirm and diagnose the issue. Mold in the attic is not normal, not healthy, and a sign that there is another problem in the home causing the relative humidity in the attic to go above 75% so mold can grow on wood and insulation. Result - Mold all over the roof deck, odor and even rot.

We utilized our Mold-X2 Cleaner and Botanical treatment to help this homeowner. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable, and was sprayed on effected areas. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner was applied, the mold disappeared instantly, leaving wood surfaces looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, was sprayed on afterward, which prevents mold from growing back. Now the attic is ready for our other solutions. Result - Mold eliminated, no odors or wood rot.

This homeowner in Hampton, CT called us for assistance insulating his home that was built in the early-mid 1800s. He said that he had no idea what the attic insulation looked like as there was no way to access it. However, he did say that the rooms in his home were VERY hot during the summer. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noted that that was because it was a cathedral ceiling. In most areas of the United States, homes need R60 insulation in their attics - the equivalent of a 20” deep fiberglass batt. But cathedral ceilings only have the depth of the rafters (6”-11”) for insulation. Two factors relating to the optional vented roof design make the situation much worse. First, some of the rafter space is used for airflow (cold in winter) - which means even less space for insulation. Second, this air flow “wind washes” open faced fiberglass batts, reducing the R-value of batts that were designed and rated to be used in closed cavities with no airflow whatsoever. Result - the cathedral ceiling is dramatically under insulated. Air in the home that the homeowner paid to heat, hits the cold ceiling and descends, creating a “convective” loop making the room feel cold and drafty. In the summer, the roofing heats up to 160˚ and the roof heat radiates through the ceiling and heats up the room.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this homeowner. In this solution, the soffit vent is blocked with a continuous board which may need painting along with the fascia by the homeowner. The gutter and fascia board are removed and a TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is “dense packed” into the rafter bays through a long fill pipe inserted deep into the ceiling/roof. Dense packing fills all air spaces, compresses existing batt insulation, and stops air leakage. The ridge vent remains and functions not as an air vent, but a vapor vent. The fascia board and gutter are reinstalled. Result - Room is warmer in winter, cooler in summer, less drafty, more comfortable, lower heating and cooling bills, easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Hampton, CT called us originally because he had a huge moisture problem in his attic. When our Home Comfort specialist arrived in the home, he noticed that the insulation was substandard, which was likely the cause of his moisture issues. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. Attics are dramatically under-insulated compared to today’s standards. Result - cold drafty rooms downstairs, colder floors, house is harder to heat and keep comfortable, higher fuel and electric bills.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this homeowner -- sealing the home and insulating using our TruSoft™ blown-in cellulose insulation. Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because you are burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why we first carefully air seal the many various points where air from your home leaks up into your attic and is lost. We use expanding foam, boards, caulk, and metal flashing and fire caulk around your masonry or metal chimney as appropriate. If necessary, baffles (air chutes) are installed in each rafter bay to keep soffit vents clear and prepare for insulation. Finally, our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided. Results - a warmer, more comfortable, less drafty house that you’ll notice everywhere - even downstairs! House is quieter. Fuel and electric bills are lower.

This homeowner in Hampton, CT called us hoping to get his home insulated. He was complaining of a cold home - especially after the homeowner had removed his own insulation. Our Home Comfort Specialist came out to assess the home and realized that one of the large issues was the lack of insulation in the rim joist. The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.